The Food Lab: Vegan Burgers That Don’t Suck
The Perfect Veggie Burger
There are a few key characteristics that I look for in a great veggie patty.
- The burger must be structurally sound. I want a veggie burger that holds its shape and doesn’t have the texture of mashed potatoes, squishing out the back of the bun as I bite down.
- The burger must have good textural contrast. All lumps or all smooth is no good. I want the patty to be soft and tender, but have little bits and bites of crunch and chew.
- The burger’s flavor must be good, but not overly assertive. I want my burger to have a good balance of savory flavors. What I don’t is for a single flavor—say a spice or an herb—to dominate, restricting my topping choices.
- The burger must hold together on a griddle or grill. A veggie burger that cracks or crumbles and falls into the grill grates when you cook it may as well not ever have existed int he first place.
- The burger must not suck.*
